Travelling to the Sub-Antarctic Islands turned out to be an unforgettable adventure—one that totally exceeded my expectations. Despite having plenty of experience exploring the Polar regions, these islands hadn’t been high on my radar. Looking back, I can see now that was just a case of me underestimating what they had to offer. Sure, I knew Macquarie Island was famous for its incredible wildlife, but I was a bit nervous about the long stretches at sea and whether the other islands would have enough to make the trip worth it. I’m happy to say those concerns were completely unwarranted, and I now firmly believe that this journey should be on everyone’s travel bucket list.
The Sub-Antarctic islands of Australia and New Zealand include five remote, largely uninhabited island groups: The Snares, Bounty, Antipodes, Auckland, and Campbell Islands. These islands see far fewer visitors compared to the Antarctic Peninsula. In a typical season, only about 12 expedition voyages venture here, with a maximum of 1,500 visitors per year across all the islands, and some, like Macquarie Island, see even fewer. Each island group offers something unique, whether it’s in the diverse landscapes or the incredible wildlife they support. But what they all share is their location in the notorious Southern Ocean, where the ocean currents have fearsome names like ‘The Roaring Forties’ and ‘Furious Fifties.’ I’ll admit, I was a bit apprehensive about this aspect of the journey. While the swell definitely lived up to its reputation, the overall experience far exceeded my expectations.
My journey kicked off in Hobart and took me to Macquarie Island, Campbell Island, the Auckland Islands, and The Snares. While wildlife is one of the main attractions, these islands are also a hotspot for seabirds, hosting the most diverse collection of seabird species on the planet. For instance, 10 of the world’s albatross species breed in this region, with around 40% of the global population calling it home. Remarkably, five of these species are found nowhere else on Earth. On Campbell Island, we were fortunate enough to get up close to nesting Southern Albatrosses. It’s not until you’re right there, within arm’s reach, that you truly appreciate how massive these birds are—some have wingspans of up to 3.5 metres!
In addition to the albatross, these islands are home to a wide range of birdlife, including petrels, shearwaters, teals, fulmars, parrakeets, snipes, pipits, prions, and many more. There’s even a greater variety of penguin species here than you’ll find in Antarctica! My personal favourite were the curious king penguins, which formed huge colonies on Macquarie Island but each island group had its own unique penguin species to offer—Royal Penguins on Macquarie Island, Snares Penguins, Yellow-eyed Penguins in the Auckland Islands, and Gentoo, Macaroni, and Rockhopper Penguins, just to name a few (though I’m probably forgetting a couple!).
The islands also boast a rich history of sealing, whaling, shipwrecks, and even some World War II stories, which added an extra layer of depth to our journey. One of the guests onboard, a recently retired geologist, gave a fascinating presentation on the islands’ geology. While much of it went over my head, one fact really stuck with me: Macquarie Island is the only place on Earth made entirely of oceanic crust and rocks from the mantle.
Another huge drawcard in these islands is their flora, much of it endemic to each island. From the beautiful Rata forests of the Auckland Islands, the spectacular flowering ‘Megaberbs’ found on several islands, cushion plants, incredible moss and lichen at every turn. My personal favourite was without a doubt the strands of kelp surrounding places like Enderby Island and Musgrave Inlet. I found myself completely mesmerised by them and it quickly became a bit of an obsession watching them sway in the water.
The flora and fauna of this region is only thriving because of the huge conservation efforts which have been undertaken in particular on Macquarie Islands which undertook the biggest and most successful multi species eradication program ever seen on the planet and was finally declared pest free in 2014. It’s an extraordinary achievement, especially considering the island’s vast size and rugged landscape. We were fortunate enough to hear firsthand accounts from guides who had been directly involved in the program, adding a whole new layer of depth to our experience.
The ship I travelled on, the Heritage Adventurer was also fantastic. While it may not be the most luxurious vessel travelling to Antarctica I found the overall experience to be exceptional. The cabins were well-maintained and serviced regularly, the food was varied and delicious, and the expedition team was, without a doubt, the best I’ve ever had on a polar journey. The lectures were captivating, with each guide sharing fascinating stories, a deep passion for the destination, and incredible insights that truly enhanced the experience. I felt the ship struck the perfect balance between comfort and the spirit of exploration—offering just the right amount of coziness, excellent food, and an exceptional team.
I always thought a trip to the Sub-Antarctic Islands was best suited for seasoned travelers on their third or fourth Polar cruise. However, after chatting with many passengers onboard who were taking their first voyage, I realized it could easily be an unforgettable first-time expedition for those with a spirit of adventure. Yes, the seas can get rough at times, but the Heritage Adventurer handled the conditions with ease, and over the course of our 12-day journey, only a handful of people were affected by seasickness. Cheli, our exceptional expedition leader, shared a quote during her trip debrief that really resonated with me: “Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.” And I can honestly say, this trip provided countless moments that left me in awe.
If you’re considering your next adventure, I highly recommend this journey. I’d also be happy to chat about future expeditions in this incredible region!
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