By Leanne Dunhill
It took a while to get my head around leaving New Zealand in June, our winter where we had more night than day, then arriving Tromso, Norway where we had more day, than night. It was wonderful to see so much sunlight!
The Arctic was top of the list of places I had yet to visit and my time aboard SH Diana with Swan Hellenic certainly didn’t disappoint. Everything was made so easy, starting from landing in Tromso, boarding the courtesy transfer to the arrival hotel. Tromso was bigger than I expected for a city so far north and The Clarion Edge Hotel, right on the waterfront, gave perfect views of arriving and departing ships and the Fjellheisen (cable car) across the water which gave great views back over towards the city. The city itself is filled with quirky shops selling woolly goods, interesting food products and trolls, making for some fascinating shopping excursions. There were many restaurant choices, with most focusing on Scandinavian food, particularly food from this region in particular.
This itinerary is one of a few that fully circumnavigates Spitsbergen. Heading north from Tromso we saw Bear Island, known for the thousands if not millions of seabirds that call this island home before they migrate south for warmer weather. Sadly, due to the foggy conditions, we were unable to get close to the shore by zodiac, so viewed the coastline from the ship.
After departing Bear Island we continued our journey north to Svalbard where we spent 5 days enjoying the archipelago.
Day 1 – Visited Gashamma, where we made a landing and had the opportunity to walk around and view the old huts. Those that had signed up for kayaking took the opportunity to see the landscape from the sea. Later that afternoon came one of the highlights of the trip for me when we landed at Gnalodden. Here we saw playful Arctic foxes, which had not quite lost their winter coats.
Day 2 – We had the most amazing zodiac cruise at Lillehookbreen where we got to witness (from a very safe distance) the glacier carving. Later that day we arrived at the research town of Ny-Alesund. Here there was a fascinating museum and post office, where you could purchase a postcard and send it from the northern-most town. Ny-Alesund is also where Amundsen’s airship the Norge Flight departed on the first trans-polar flight in 1926, crossing the North Pole and arriving in Teller, Alaska. For those not so agile passengers, this was a great stop as the ship docked and we could walk on and off the ship whenever suited. The staff were always available, and Polar Bear guards were positioned around the town to keep us safe.
Day 3 – Zodiac cruising around Monacobreen.
Day 4 – This was our first opportunity to see a Walrus haul out. Groups went ashore in turn to view these magnificent animals. Luck was on our side today with our first Polar Bear sighting. Groups that were ashore were quickly transferred to the SH Diana by zodiac and those that hadn’t made the landing boarded the zodiacs to cruise the water’s edge to get a great view of the solo bear and the walruses. Those that had made the landing earlier were given the opportunity to zodiac cruise again to see the bear.
Day 5- Today’s activities were a landing at Kapp Lee to see the wild reindeer, walrus haulout and historic huts. Our visit here was cut short when another Polar Bear was sighted but nobody minded as we got to see this bear from the safety of the ship. In the afternoon we had a zodiac cruise at Thomas Smithoyane where we got to cruise amongst the icebergs.
We started our return journey south after a fantastic 5 days in Svalbard. A day at sea was a great way to recover from the adventures of previous days and to prepare for some time back on mainland Norway. This time was spent enjoying lectures, visiting the bridge, cruising the pack ice, and enjoying the facilities on board.
On arrival at Skarsvag where we shuttled ashore by tender boats in groups and had time to wander around the small fishing village and visit their very Christmassy shop and café. After that we headed to North Cape (Nordkapp) and mainland Europe’s most northerly road. I was surprised how busy it was here. Very interesting museum, but also some amazing views! We also enjoyed a stop along the way at a Sami village and had a chance to browse their souvenir stand, see how they live and look at the reindeer before sailing around the Cape later that evening.
Our last day, before heading back to Tromso was spent in Alta. We enjoyed an excursion around the town visiting the Northern Lights Cathedral before boarding a bus to Alta Museum where we saw the world UNESCO rock art site made by hunter gatherers dating back to 4200-500 B.C! More rock art is found in Alta than anywhere else in northern Europe.
Swan Hellenic, in addition to these included excursions in Skarsvag and Alta offered other options which can be prebooked and are payable on board. Both in Skarsvag and Alta hiking options were offered, and in Skarsvag you can also take a king crab safari.
Our cabin for the expedition was a balcony cabin located on deck 5. The cabin was extremely spacious for two but could accommodate a third easily with the sofa bed. Tastefully decorated features and all the mod-cons you could ask for, toiletries, fully stocked fridge, coffee machine and daily top ups of snacks. The expedition team’s knowledge was extremely varied from Polar Bear experts, Arctic historians, ornithologists and even someone who was part of the team that located Shackleton’s Endurance. They were always on hand to answer questions, were aware of their surroundings and our safety was always uppermost in their minds. They regularly mingled with guests, joining them at their tables for dinner or drinks, creating the atmosphere of a relaxed family adventure.
During the first meal on board the maître de and chef visited each table to discuss dietary requirements which I thought was very good. Depending on the activities of the day meals varied. Breakfast was always a buffet, ranging from oatmeal, fresh fruit to hot food such as bacon, sausages etc. There was also an egg station where a chef would cook up omelettes, eggs benedict etc. There was also a smoothie station. Lunch time was also a buffet, however here you could visit the main restaurant on deck 4, or a smaller limited selection of foods on deck 7 for a lighter lunch. Dinner was always a la carte where you could choose from 2-3 items on each course, normally 4-5 courses, all accompanied by your choice of drinks. Cookies, fruit, and hot drinks are available 24/7 on deck 7 near the pool.
Waterproof pants are not provided, so guests will need to bring these, but the ship loans rubber boots that you get to keep for the whole trip. Every cabin has a locker in the muck room (where you board the zodiacs) where these can be stored. Everyone is also given a waterproof jacket to keep that includes a down puffer jacket that can be detached from inside of the waterproof outer and used separately, a stainless-steel water bottle and dry-pack back-pack for excursions.
At the end of the voyage, we received a video, electronic photo diary and access to the pictures the photographer took of the departure.
The crew, housekeeping, dining, bar staff, reception and those assisting with the daily zodiac and excursion operation were all extremely approachable, polite and always willing to assist. My mother at the end of the expedition was known as “Mama Carol” by all! This was her first time on an expedition like this, and now she is hooked… Watch this space!!!
Contact our Polar Expedition experts to start planning your Arctic holiday today!
